So if you didn't know, I am a Tennessee native. Coming from Nashville, the derby culture was literally in my backyard. We witness probably the greatest Met Gala in history featuring Dandyism.
When most people think of the Kentucky Derby or the Preakness Stakes, images of extravagant hats, mint juleps, and high fashion often come to mind. But woven into the rich tapestry of these traditions is a lesser-known but deeply powerful story—the impact of Black fashion, presence, and excellence at the racetrack. From the earliest days of American horse racing, Black people played a central role, not only as skilled jockeys and trainers but also as trendsetters and cultural contributors whose style and influence shaped the soul of derby culture.
In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, Black jockeys like Isaac Murphy and Jimmy Winkfield were household names, dominating the sport with talent and poise. Simultaneously, Black fashion was becoming a force in public life, with derby events serving as showcases for self-expression, pride, and resistance. These were moments where dressing sharply was more than looking good—it was about asserting dignity in a country that denied it. As Black people migrated away from the South during the Great Migration—between roughly 1916 and 1970—they brought their rich cultural aesthetics with them. This exodus of millions of Black families to cities like New York, Philadelphia, and Chicago infused urban centers with Southern elegance, formality, and flair.
It was during this time that Black Dandyism flourished—especially in East Coast cities like Harlem, Washington, D.C., and parts of Brooklyn. Dandyism was more than fashion—it was a cultural response to racial stereotypes, flipping the script with carefully curated looks: bold suits, luxurious fabrics, canes, hats, and shoes polished to perfection. This commitment to self-styled sophistication defied the constraints of poverty and prejudice. It communicated power, pride, and creativity in a society that tried to suppress all three. The spirit of the Black Dandy became inseparable from Black fashion at the derby: sharp, regal, and intentional.
Today, Black fashion at the derby is about more than just the outfit—it’s about legacy. It reflects centuries of style evolution, from plantation stables to Harlem ballrooms to Churchill Downs. Whether it’s a classic pastel suit or a contemporary fusion of African prints and European tailoring, Black presence at the racetrack reclaims and redefines a space long tied to our history. Fashion becomes a tool of remembrance and resistance, reminding us that wherever Black people go, style and substance follow.
As Black participation in the sport was systematically reduced due to racism and policy, so too was the visibility of Black style at mainstream events. But in recent decades, there's been a resurgence—a reclaiming of space and legacy. Events like the Black Turf Weekend during the Derby, and Black-led brunches, fashion shows, and community gatherings around derby time have breathed new life into what was always ours. Black designers, influencers, and creatives now use the derby platform not only to serve looks, but to honor ancestors who paved the way with elegance and skill.
Today, Black fashion at the derby is about more than just the outfit—it's about reclaiming a narrative. Whether it’s a sharp seersucker suit or an Afro-futurist twist on traditional derby attire, Black presence at the racetrack is a living celebration of history, resilience, and creativity. It’s a reminder that the derby, with all its flair and spectacle, has always had a deep and undeniable Black influence—and that impact is only growing stronger.
The more you know...